Chicken Blocks for March

Chicken Blocks for March

March is my month to propose and collect blocks for a Charity Quilt.  In preparation for my month I had two happy accidents.  First I saw this quilt by Emily Dennis at Quilting Love (this is her photo):

quiltylove_EmilyDennis_chicken_quilt-4986

Then while at my local quilt shop right before New Years I found this awesome fabric:

chicken background fabric

So, obviously I needed to make a chicken quilt!

Emily’s blog post is here, and she links to the original pattern and tutorial for the Chicken Block: Chicken Quilt Block Tutorial by Sew Inspired.  I agree with Emily’s comment in her post that the instructions for attaching the comb is not entirely clear, so I’ll add some instructions of my own here.

Chicken Block Charity Quilt:

Please follow the Sew Inspired tutorial to create a 7″x8″ block (6.5″x7.5″ finished).

Body Fabric – black, grey or yellow – either solids or prints.  I like the look of the quilt that Emily created so the example above is a good one to use.  Note when you piece the chicken the 5.5″x6.5″ body piece should be placed with the 5.5″ side as the width and the 6.5″ piece as the height (see the diagram below).

Background – white solid or white on white print

Beak – Orange solid or print

Comb – Red solid or print

I drew this diagram to help with the assembly.  I got confused about which way the body was oriented and did it the wrong way the first time.  Go ahead and do all the triangle ‘snowballs’ on the edges before you do the comb (through step 4 on her tutorial).

chicken diagram

Comb Tutorial:

  1.  Cut two 2″x2.5″ squares as instructed in the tutorial.
  2. Draw a comb shape on the wrong side of one rectangle.  Orient the rectangle so that the 2.5″ side is the width and 2″ is the height.

marking the comb

3.  Put the squares right sides together and sew on your comb line:

sewing the comb

4.  Cut down the excess around the sewn line and clip the seam allowance where you have tight curves.  Here I’m trying to show that I clipped it in the ‘valleys’ between the comb bumps:

cutting the comb

5.  Turn the comb right side out and press:

turning right side out

6.  Place the comb on the top background strip (2″x5.5″) that already has the chicken body triangle attached.  You can see below I drew a 1/4″ line on the right side of the background piece to help keep the comb away from the seam allowance.  I should have done the same across the top!

quarter inch on the side

7.  Top stitch the comb down by stitching around the edge of the comb:

sewing down the comb

8.  Sew the 2″ square background piece on the right side.  You can see here I did better with keeping the comb away from the top seam allowance on my second comb:

comb comparison

9.  Join the rest of the pieces and admire your cute chicken!  With my pin cushions I’m really gathering a flock.

blocks with cushion

I hope you enjoy making your chickens, and I can’t wait to see them all!  If you choose to participate, please send me your blocks by April 15, 2019.  Bee Inspired members have my address, but if you just want to join in and send me blocks leave a comment and I’ll get you my address.

Happy chickens!

Ann from Brown Paws Quilting

 

 

 

 

 

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July Tutorial – 10-inch Toadstools

SB tutorial finished

Yep, July already! Well here anyway. This month we’re making a toadstool quilt for my great-niece Tilly, a term that makes me sound like I’m 150 😊. Velda and Emily have made me these blocks for Stash Bee already, where it was popular with my hive mates and a couple of you expressed that you would have liked it to be our bee block too so I’m here to please! I’ve changed my original plan and I’m now going to be making a larger quilt. Hope you enjoy it!

The block has been tweaked – up scaled, turned into a square, simplified slightly, and the tiny HST units have been removed (you’re welcome) – from this block by I am LunaSol. It turns out that it now looks very similar to this block by Patty Sloniger. When I couldn’t find the pattern in her shop I checked with her and she has given her consent to me using it so long as I acknowledge that she came up with it first. I’m more than happy with that!

SB tutorial fabric selection

FOR FABRIC CHOICES I would prefer a red and white print for the toadstool tops if you have it or black and white if you don’t, low volume prints on white or off white for the background, a mid to dark grey print, blender or solid for the stem and a pale grey print, blender or solid for the gills. Since Tilly is coming up to her third birthday feel free to add prints with some novelty value.

SB tutorial cutting

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

From the red print

Cut one rectangle 5 ½” x 10 ½”

Cut two 1 ½” squares

From the pale grey

Cut one 1 ½” x 10 ½” rectangle

From the darker grey

Cut one rectangle 4 ½” x 3”

From the low volume

Cut two rectangles 4 ½” x 4 ¼”

Cut two 3 ½” squares

SEWING IT TOGETHER

SB tutorial flip triangles

Mark the diagonals on the two low volume squares and the two red print squares

Line the low volume squares up in the corner of the red print rectangle so the line cuts across the corner, and the same for the red print squares on the pale grey print rectangle. Stitch along the marked line. Trim and press.

SB tutorial layout

Stitch the two low volume rectangles to either side of the darker grey rectangle.

Stitch the three sections together to form a toadstool.

And we’re done!

POSTING TIPS

Please also add an airmail sticker or write it on the envelope to avoid the two month delivery time.

I know you guys will do a stunning job and I can’t wait to see them!

I Spy Block Tutorial {Teenage Version}

March is my month to be queen for Bee Inspired.  I have chosen an easy peasy block using just two fabrics.  This rectangle block is used by permission from a fellow Greenville MQG member, Didi at DidiQuilts.com.

I’m calling it a Teenage I Spy block.

Finished size 8 x 12, (unfinished 8 1/2″ x 12 1/2″)

I spy block

My local traditional guild is making charity quilts for girls of all ages up to teenage who are living at a home for children.  The plan is to give each girl a quilt which they can then take with them when they are old enough to leave.  I want to make a larger lap quilt for a teenager.

Fabrics – Block Center   

For the block center anything goes.  Feel free to use novelty prints,  low volume prints, or anything that inspires you.

Fabrics – Framing Fabric

For the frames or borders please use solids in the following colors:

Pink, Purple, Blue, Aqua, and Gray – Feel free to use lights, mediums and darks in any shades or tones.

My only prerequisite is that I would like for the fabrics to be prewashed.  Prewashing is easy if you follow my tutorial for prewashing a small amount of fabric.

Cutting the Fabric

From the novelty fabric used for the center of the block, cut:

(1) rectangle 4 1/2″ x 8 1/2″

From the framing fabric, cut:

(4) rectangles 2 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ 

I spy parts

Piecing

Sew (1) framing rectangle to each of the long sides of the central rectangle.  Press seams towards the framing fabric.

Tip:  When sewing the framing rectangles onto the central rectangle, sew with the framing rectangles on the bottom.  That way, if the central rectangle was cut on the lengthwise grain, the framing rectangles will has less opportunity to stretch as you are piecing.

I spy sides

Sew the remaining (2) rectangles to the top and bottom of the block and press the seams, again, toward the framing fabric.  And, tada, you are done!  Here are some I Spy blocks I have made.

I spy blocks 2.jpg

Feel free to make a many as you like, because I will need 42 blocks which will make a lap quilt in a 6 x 7 block layout measuring 56″ x 72″.  I’m looking forward to seeing what you make.

 

I’m the Queen of March!

Not sure how I feel about that. March here is often cold, windy, rainy, muddy, and sometimes there are even tornadoes.

March SkyAs the Queen of March, I suppose I should feel bad that the weather for my month isn’t that great. Somehow though I don’t seem to care because besides a variety of weather, March includes the Spring Equinox, the Oscars, Palm Sunday and most of Easter weekend, and among other things Peanut Butter Lover’s Day, If Pets Had Thumbs Day, Popcorn Lover’s Day, Ear Muffs Day, National Proofreaders Day, Open an Umbrella Indoors Day, Girl Scouts Day, Something on a Stick Day, International Day of Happiness and World Water Day.

Isn’t that a great month to be Queen? Well, that’s not all!

Here in the U.S. quilting is celebrated on National Quilting Day, which is March 17th. Not to be outdone, Worldwide Quilting Day is also March 17th, and of course so is St. Patrick’s Day! I’m Irish, so this year I’ll be streaming my Irish music, indulging in corn beef, drinking green beer, and of course quilting my heart out on March 17th! <grin>

St Patricks Day 2016 2All in all, I’m glad to be the Queen of March!

Here in Bee Inspired, being Queen means I get to choose a block for my bee mates to make for me. Last year, my bee mates made me an Irish Eyes block (my design).

Irish Eyes block 4

After making a few more blocks, I sewed them together  with a plan of adding borders like this.My quilt idea 3

Recently though, I got the notion to do something else in the borders. Something more Irish. Something like this.

My quilt idea 7So. Back to being Queen. It seems fitting (especially since it’s March) that I ask my bee mates to help me finish the quilt we started together by making me Shamrock blocks for my border. The blocks finish at 4″ (4-1/2″ unfinished) so I’m hopeful that some of you will make more than one block. Of course that’s optional, but it sure would be appreciated as I need to make 34 of them!

Sharock Block 3To make 1 block, you’ll need:

  • (3) green 2-1/2″ squares
  • (1) green 3/4″ x 4″ rectangle
  • (1) white 2-3/4″ square, cut once diagonally
  • (9) white 1-1/4″ squares

Start by drawing a diagonal line on the back of all those white 1-1/4″ squares. Place one square, right sides together (RST), in the corner of one green 2-1/2″ square. Sew on the line, press it back towards the corner, then trim the seam allowance to 1/4″.

Step 1Repeat this on two other corners as shown.

Step 2Step 3

Next, center one white 2-3/4″ triangle on the green 3/4″ x 4″ rectangle, RST. Sew and press. I pressed towards the triangle.

Step 4Step 5Lay the other white triangle on top as shown, RST. Be sure to center the triangle as shown. Sew and press again, then trim the unit to 2-1/2″.

Step 6Step 7Step 8Sew the block together in rows then sew the rows together.

Step 9Step 10Step 11Here’s how I pressed the back. You can press it however you think best. I trimmed the block to 4-1/2″.

Step 12You can use any green for the shamrock, but please use the same green throughout the block. I’d like to use white on white fabric for the background. Here’s my sample block.

Sharock Block 2And here’s the quilt top as it looks right now, so you can see the variety of greens and whites used in it.

Irish Eyes top 1Thanks everyone for letting me be Queen! I can’t wait to see your blocks.

Blog signature 2

 

Planted Pines ~ November Bee Block

Planted Pines ~ November Bee Block

I live among pine trees, planted Loblolly pines, with my husband on his family’s century farm so for my block I decided to design a pine tree block, Planted Pines.  It was a gorgeous fall day, just look how blue the sky was in this unedited photo.

Pine TreesThese pines have just been thinned (for the 2nd time) and will be clear-cut in another 10 years or more.  Then, the process of planting and cutting will start all over again making forestry a natural renewable resource.

In the tree farming business, the tallest and straightest pines trees are most desirable bringing the most money at saw mill.  That’s why I designed my Planted Pines quilt block to be tall and lean just like the pine trees.

Planted Pines Blocks

Planted Pines blocks finish at exactly 6″ in width and approximately 18″ in height (give or take).  Unfinished size is 6 1/2″ x 18 1/2″.  The blocks are constructed from flying geese units, a tree trunk section and the ground, or more commonly referred to around here as red hills in the upstate of South Carolina.

Here are a few examples of planted pines blocks.  As you can see, they can be constructed from two, three or four flying geese units or half triangles if you wish.  How large or small and the degree of the angle for the ground is up to you.  You are welcome to add a bit of background to increase the length of your Planted Pines block.

Planted Pine BlocksPlanted Pines are constructed from a variety of more earthy greens in solids, tone-on-tones and prints with very little colors other than neutrals.  There are exceptions, a tree would be beautiful in this Kaffe Fassett print which includes a little purple.

Greens for blocksFor the tree trunks, any browns from solids to tone-on-tones will work fine.  And for the backgrounds please use creams, light tans, light gray, white or low volume.  Here are some examples.

Creams for blocksFabric for the ground or red clay has been mailed to everyone.  It’s burnt orange from In The Beginning Fabrics.  I included 2 patches should you be industrious, but one will be appreciated.

I’ve made two blocks so far…

Planted Pines Bee Block 1

Planted Pines Bee Block 2Now you have the idea, let’s start piecing Planted Pines.

Flying Geese Units 

We will start with the Flying Geese units.  These measurements are for the sew and flip method for 1 flying geese unit, but you are welcome to use the 4 at a time method.

You will need:

  • (2) Background squares 3 1/2″ x 3 1/2″
  • (1) Green rectangle 6 1/2″ x 3 1/2″

Planted Pines Flying Geese 1Draw a line diagonally from corner to corner,  I used a hera marker.  I also marked a line 1/2″ away from the first line.  I plan to make bonus half square triangles (HSTs).

Planted Pines Flying Geese 2Stitch on one or both lines.

Planted Pines Flying Geese 3Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″ or cut between the two sewn lines.  TIP:  If you press and set the seam(s) before you trim,  you will have less distortion when pressing the bias seams.  Since I am making the bonus HSTs, I flipped the unit over and pressed the seam toward the dark.

Planted Pines Flying Geese 4Repeat with the other background square on the opposite side.

Planted Pines Flying Geese 5And now you have one flying geese unit.  Repeat to make a total of 2, 3 or 4 flying geese.  Sew the geese together with a scant 1/4″ seam.  Press the seams toward the top of the tree.

Planted Pines Flying Geese 6

Update 11/1/17 – For making flying geese using the 4 at a time no waste method: Cut (1) green square 7 1/4″ and (4) background squares 3 7/8″.  Generations Quilt Patterns has a nice tutorial.

Tree Trunk

Let’s move on to the tree trunk.  The measurements here will result in a tree trunk that finishes at 1″ wide.  But feel free to adjust your cutting to make a skinnier or fatter tree.  You will need:

  • (1) Background rectangle 6″ wide x approximately 8″ long (can vary depending on the number of flying geese units your plan to incorporate in to your block)
  • (1) Brown rectangle 1 1/2″ x approximately 8″ long 

Planted Pines Trunk 1Cut the background rectangle in half lengthwise resulting in two smaller rectangles measuring 3″ x 8″ approx.

Planted Pines Trunk 2Sew the trunk between the two background rectangles.  Press the seams toward the trunk (dark).  The important measurement here is the width of the unit which should be exactly 6 1/2″ wide.  Trim or square up the sides and the top of the tree trunk unit if necessary.

Planted Pines Trunk 3

The Ground or Red Hills

I live right at the edge of the mountains so the landscape around here is anything but level.  Feel free to make your ground as steep as you like.  I will show you how to maintain the straight of grain while piecing the trunk and ground together.  You will need:

  • (1) Ground rectangle 7″ x 4″ (approximately)
  • (1) Tree Trunk unit

Lay the tree trunk unit on your cutting mat and decide the angle of your ground.  You can audition the slope with your ruler.

Planted Pines Trunk 5Leave your ruler in place and make the cut.

Planted Pines Trunk 6Lay the ground rectangle on your cutting mat like so.  Place the tree trunk unit over the ground fabric centering it from side to side and keeping the sides parallel to to the lines on your cutting mat.

Planted Pines Ground 1Place your ruler along the bottom edge of the tree trunk unit and cut on the angle.

Planted Pines Ground 2

The tree trunk and ground should look like this. The ground should be wider than the tree trunk unit.

Planted Pines Ground 3Flip the tree trunk unit down toward the ground and align the raw edges.  The ground fabric should extend beyond the tree trunk on both sides.

Planted Pines Ground 4Stitch with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.  Press the seam toward the ground fabric.

Planted Pines Ground 5Trim the ground to 6 1/2″ wide.  A 6 1/2″ rule makes trimming a breeze.

Planted Pines Ground 6See how center of the center of the ruler goes right down the center of the tree trunk?

Planted Pines Ground 7It should look like so after trimming up, 6 1/2″ wide by aprox. 10″ tall.

Planted Pines Ground 8Join the flying geese and tree trunk/ground to complete the block.  The block should be 6 1/2″ wide.  The length should be approximately 18 1/2″, but if it is shorter or longer, it’s fine and you’ll see why in a bit.  Congratulations, you’ve completed a Planted Pines block.

Planted Pines detail sm.jpg

More about the Trees and Ground

This is a beautiful sunset behind the pines.

IMG_7856The trees were thinned this summer and here is a glimpse of the operation.

Cut treesThe trees are sorted into chip-n-saw for making waferboard used in new construction and into pulp wood for making paper.  I would like to think its going to make the cardboard bolts for holding fabric but there’s no way to know.

The trees are cut to length for hauling.  Look at the size of that blade.

Sorting treesThere is always the chance of loosing trees from high winds or ice build up.  This tree was blown over in a recent storm.

Fallen PineI’m not exaggerating  about the color of the red clay in the soil.  This is a photo of the root ball from the fallen tree.  That’s why I picked out this solid from In the Beginning Fabrics.  The color is burnt orange and I found it at my local quilt shop.

Red Clay

Planted Pines Quilt Layout

This is the layout I have planned for the Planted Pines quilt blocks.   The blocks will be sewn into vertical rows with spacing added as needed to complete each row.  That’s the reason why the length of the blocks is not as critical.

Planted Pines no seams sm wm

I plan to make a lap quilt.  I mailed each of my Bee Inspired bee mates 2 pieces of ground fabric, but if you only have time for one block, that’s just fine.  I look forward to building my tree farm from your blocks.  Please share your block(s) on social media #PlantedPinesQuilt and tag me @QuiltedBlooms.

Yippee, It’s My Turn at Hive Queen!

Yippee, It’s My Turn at Hive Queen!

This month is my turn at hive queen, which means I get to choose a block for the other Bee Inspired bee members to make for me. I had a tough time choosing, but in the end I designed a block I’m calling Irish Eyes.

Irish Eyes block signedI’m Irish you see, and the truth is I’ve always wanted to make an Irish Chain quilt but I could never decide if I liked single Irish Chain or Triple Irish Chain quilts better.

Lately, I’ve been wanting to make something that looks like an Irish Chain but with a modern twist. I’ve been trying to design my take on a modern Irish Chain block for some time now, and becoming Hive Queen this month was the push I needed to finally decide on something.

The block finishes at 12” and uses the No Waste Method Flying Geese method. Here’s what you’ll need to make one block:

White
(4) 4-1/2” squares
(8) 2-7/8” squares
(2) 1-1/2” x 4-1/2” rectangles
(2) 1-1/2” x 2-1/2” rectangles

Dark Green
(1) 2-1/2” square

Medium Green
(1) 5-1/4” square

Light Green
(1) 5-1/4” square

Use (1) 5-1/4” Medium Green square and (4) 2-7/8” squares to make (4) Flying Geese using the No Waste Method. If you need help with that, click here to view my tutorial.

Repeat, using (1) 5-1/4” Light Green square and (4) 2-7/8” squares to make (4) more Flying Geese. Sew (1) 1 Medium Green and (1) Light Green Flying Geese together. Repeat with remaining Flying Geese.

If you don’t want to use the No Waste Method, the flying geese finish at 2″ x 4″ so you can easily substitute stitch and flip for example, by using one 2-1/2″ x 4-1/2″ green rectangle and two 2-1/2″ white squares for each flying geese unit.

Flying Geese units 1To make the Center, sew (1) 1-1/2” x 2-1/2” rectangles to either side of (1) Dark Green 2-1/2” square.

Making center 1Sew (1) 1-1/2” x 4-1/2” rectangles to the top and bottom of the unit.

Making center 2

Layout the Center, (4) Flying Geese units, and (4) White 4-1/2” squares as shown. Sew the block together in rows, then sew the rows together. Trim to 12-1/2”.

Unsewn block with glying geeseHere’s what I might make with my blocks. I just love this, and all the quilting possibilities it presents. But mostly I’m psyched by the idea that I’ll have a quilt that reminds me of my Bee Inspired bee mates!

Sample quilt 1

Now what I’m hoping for here is a scrappy look. So in the instructions above, the light/medium/and dark greens are relative, and not literal. If you look at my sample block you’ll see that my lightest green isn’t really all that light, but it is lighter than the other two. I really would like bright greens, fully saturated like the ones shown here. The greens you use can be darker, but please don’t use a green that’s light or pale. Pale just isn’t me. <grin> Also, I’m looking for the greens to radiate out from the center, from relative dark to light.

The background should be a white tone-on-tone or low volume like the one shown here.

I hope you all like making this block! Thanks for the push I needed to finally design it! <grin> If you notice from my quilt layout, I could use some scraps of green from the blocks you make. So if you could, I would love a 5-1/4″ square of one of the greens you use, or a finished flying geese unit if you’re so inclined. Can’t wait to see what everyone creates!

Tu-Na Travels and Quilts: Day 8 in Paris and Assembling the Poodle

Tu-Na Travels and Quilts: Day 8 in Paris and Assembling the Poodle

We started the day early as our museum pass was about to expire and we still had more things to see. Here’s a few of the highlights of the day.

tunaquilts 20a

I thought street performers were found only in New York. This one amazed me since I thought he was a sculpture.

We visited Sainte Chapelle, Notre Dame Cathedral, and a modern art museum. I’m not sure where I found my energy to keep going day after day.

tunaquilts 15a

About 1/5 of the stained glass windows were covered with scaffolding on the inside of the building; they were being cleaned and restored, if needed. Even so, the place was magnificent. There are 1,113 stained glass windows with each one depicting a different story from the Bible. Next time I go, I’m taking a pair of binoculars to see them closer.

We stopped for some crepes at a cute little Creperie right outside the modern art museum.

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In the modern art museum, we saw art works by Matisse, Picasso, and others. Here’s just a sampling. Click on each pic for more info. There were some really nice pieces as well as some that were, well, interesting.

 

And some that were really off the wall.

 

tunaquilts 27a

Yes, that’s a chair hanging on the wall. There was another one: a fold-up bag chair but I figured you all know what one looks like .

 

What I learned today…Mercredi April 23, 2014

  1. French onion soup tastes much better in France than at home.tunaquilts 29a
  2. How to eat a real French crepe: First, eat some of the extra filling. Second, spread the remaining filling. Third, roll it up. Fourth, cut it in half to share with husband knowing he’s doing the same with his.
  3. Six consecutive days of a Paris museum pass was a lot to do. We visited the Louvre twice, the d’Orsay, Rodin, modern art museum, Notre Dame, St. Chappel, Notre Dame Crypt Archeological museum, d’Orangie, Invalides, Army museum, Napoleon’s tomb, Arc of Triomph, and Palace at Versailles. I think we got our money’s worth. There were only 47 other museums listed on our pass that we didn’t get to. We tried our best.
  4. Shoe shopping in Paris should be easy; every other store in the Chalet and Les Halies sections are shoes stores. Good to know if I need to buy more shoes.
  5. The half-size dishwasher in our furnished apartment is just the right size.

Poodle Block Tips:

Now onto Part Huit (8) Some Assembly Required. This will complete the poodle block. (You will find links to Parts 1-7 at the very end of this post.)

Using Sally’s tutorial for her right facing poodle found here on The Objects of Design or my tips below, let’s begin arranging the pieces. Think of it as putting a puzzle together. Hint: Use a large flat tray, design board or cutting mat that you can move closer to your machine, unless you need lots of exercise.

I will begin assembling this pooch one row at a time. Let’s think of it as a row by row. A picture follows each row description. If you laid out the frame already, you’ve already got some pieces in place. I’ve enlarged the labels only in that specific row to further help you. Be prepared to be amazed and amused as your playful puppy begins to grow right before your eyes, kind of like they do in real life.

Row 1: Top left corner, top of headtop right corner

tunaquilts 2a

Row 2: Tail, Extra tail piece made in part 7, Above back, Ear, Eye, Nose

 

tunaquilts 3aa

We’re using one of the unlabeled pieces from part 7.

 

Row 3: Behind rear under tail, Body, Chest

tunaquilts 4aa

Row 4: Lower left middle, Under Belly, extra front leg piece made in part 7

tunaquilts 5a

Here’s the other unlabeled piece that was made in part 7.

 

Row 5: Bottom left corner, Foot poof, Bottom middle, Foot poof

tunaquilts 6a

Extras to add: Add the Right side under muzzle piece to the right side of the block and the two pieces labeled Foot to the bottom of each Foot poof

tunaquilts 9a

That should be all of your pieces. Now the fun begins; bringing life to this little fella by using needle and thread.

 

You might be scratching your head, hopefully with your hand and not your foot, and wondering where to begin. There’s a logical sequence that makes it come together quickly. Just follow the pictures below and the list of seams to sew in order and you’ll be well on your way to petting this playful pup. The red numbers on the pictures below correspond to the number of the seam that you will be sewing. I’ve listed it out here for you too. Start with number 1.

Hints to remember: Check the two pieces that you will be sewing to see if you’ll be sewing two flip triangles or seams on top of each other (it will get a bit bulky). If so, just flip one to the other direction. Doing so will also help you nest those seams tight. But it’s not the end of the world if it just doesn’t work out; don’t go ripping it all apart to make it lay down. Just say, “I did my best” and let it roll over you.

The First Seams (Sew right sides together 1/4″ scant seam allowance for all the seams, press to the side—I found that most pieces had a natural tendency to lay to one side or the other)

  1. Top left corner onto Top of head
  2. Top of head to Top right corner
  3. Eye to Nose
  4. Chest to Ear
  5. Extra piece to Under belly
  6. Foot to Foot Poof
  7. Foot to Foot poof
  8. Lower left middle to Behind rear under tail
  9. Extra piece to Tail
  10. Above back to Body

tunaquilts 9aa

Now let’s see what we’ve got!

tunaquilts 33a

You can see there is progress as there are less labels. I keep at least one label on each section while sewing so I don’t get confused.

 

We are getting closer to done with each seam and this little guy will be ready to play.

Next seams to sew: The numbers correspond to the seams in the picture below.

  1. Nose to Right under muzzle
  2. Right foot poof section to Bottom middle
  3. Bottom left corner to left foot poof section
  4. Tail section to Behind rear under tail
  5. Back/Body section to Ear section

tunaquilts 33aa

Now let’s take a look at what we have.

 

 

tunaquilts 38a

Just a few more seams to sew.

  1. Left foot section to the right foot section.
  2. Under belly section to Above back/body section.

tunaquilts 38ab

Now your pampered pooch should be looking something like this:

 

tunaquilts 35a

Just four more seams and he/she will be begging for treats.

Sew the last four seams:

  1. Tail section to Body
  2. Feet section to the body section.
  3. Muzzle section (that would be his mouth/eye/nose section) to the body.
  4. For goodness sake, sew on the top of his head so you can pet him!

tunaquilts 35aa

Voilà! Meet Cherise, my newest, darling, little poodle. She’s not only playful and perky but she’s also a little bit on the wild side. I caught her hanging out with the boys: Marcel, Odie, and Tigg. I’ll have to sew her in the middle of the quilt so she doesn’t escape.

 

tunaquilts 37a

This is a 14″ unfinished block which will finish to 13.5.” Mine was right on probably due to my squaring up each of the pieces while prepping them and watching that scant 1/4″ seam.

 

What I Learned Today:

  1. Writing this specific post was very difficult. I kept getting the pictures mixed up. Let me know if you have questions or if I’ve made a mistake.
  2. When taking pictures of lots of pieces, make sure there is space between each piece so they can be seen as separate units and not a mess.
  3. I learned how to use more features in the photo editor program, Paint. It was a real time-saver or I would have had to remake this block. Maybe, someday, I’ll show you the bloopers.
  4. I’ve run out of days to post this month. I’m heading to the lake tomorrow and I won’t be back for a week.  To my American readers, have a Happy Fourth of July! To all of my other readers, have a Happy Day!
  5. No more poodles arrived today. I’ll post when they show up.
  6. Homemade macaroons taste wonderful. I will be sharing about that experience when some of those poodles arrive.

Question: If you were to give a French poodle a name, what would it be?

If you enjoyed this post and would like to read more about my journey or follow me, please visit my blog, Tu-Na Quilts, Travels, and Eats. Thank  you for visiting Bee Inspired.

Au Revoir

Karen, Tu-Na Quilts

Here are the previous poodle posts just in case you need to catch up to figure out what is going on this month at Bee Inspired. We’ve all gone on vacation—don’t we wish—to Paris. Well, maybe at least in our minds and imaginations.

Tu-Na Quilts: All Aboard. Fasten Your Seatbelts. We’re Taking Off for… You will find the pattern link for the poodle block in this post as well as why I chose this block.

Tu-Na Travels: Day One in Paris which includes Part un (1): Pattern and Fabric Selection.

Tu-Na Travels: Day Two in Paris and Poodle Block Cutting Tips which includes Part deux (2): Cutting and Anatomy Labeling.

Tu-Na Travels: Day Three in Paris and Prepping Those Furry Pieces which includes Part trois (3): Prepping the Furry Accent Pieces (Foot poofs, Tail, and Ear). 

Tu-Na Travels: Day Four in Paris and Prepping the Poodle Body Parts which includes Part quatre (4) Prepping the Poodle Body Parts.

Tu-Na Travels: Day Five in Paris and Prepping the Background Pieces which includes Part Cinq (5) Prepping the Background Pieces.

Tu-Na Travels and Quilts: Day Six in Paris and Building the Frame Around Our Pampered Pooch which includes Part Six (6) Building the Frame Around Our Pampered Pooch.

Tu-Na Travels and Quilts: Day Seven in Paris and Finishing the Leftovers which includes Part Sept (7) Prepping the Last of the Extra Pieces.

Linking to Can I Get a Whoop Whoop? and Finished or Not Friday.